I’ve never been to a city quite like Santiago, especially in Latin America. In this city, they clothe their stray dogs with a bright orange vest so they don’t get hit by cars at night. Cyclists zip by on well-demarcated bike lanes. Homosexuality is no big deal, and gay couples walk around holding hands. Street art, skate parks, a dozen universities all on strike for free education–this is a modern, even enlightened, city.